For Marni's Fall-Winter 2014 men's collection, elements and obsessions dissected and re-arranged in a mix that is quintessentially Marni: dry yet soulful, precise with a certain carelessness, graphic.
The pillars of the masculine repertoire are distilled to their essence in a quest for soft classicism that keeps a slightly subcultural tingle: the tailored suit, slim and crisp, halfway between urban staple and work uniform; the crombie coat, seen in a textural vein; the trench coat, reduced to a blueprint; the bomber and the parka, occasionally morphed into one.
The fur collar recurs throughout, in and out of context, replacing the scarf to provide warmth in a graphic way. Thrown in the mix are elements that alter the whole balance with a tingle of the unexpected: printed silk shirts with matching ties worn under sturdy coats; knitted sleeves.
The silhouette is soft yet firm: a vertical line highlighted by natural shoulders, topped with a work cap, with thick-soled shoes as a base.
The classic color palette ranges from charcoal grays to camel, from blue to black to army green. Prints alternate phytomorphic motifs with dynamic grids.
Fabrics are dry yet voluptuous to the touch: alpaca/wool blends; double-faced wool knit, light twisted flannel; washed technical polyester. Lace-up derbies with thick rubber soles, oversize sheepskin totes and postman bags, astrakhan scarves and caps complete the look.